Reporter David da Costa & Ato Lekinawa
Dili is undergoing a dramatic transformation in anticipation of Pope Francis’s visit, scheduled for September 9. Street vendors who traditionally sold coconuts and vegetables along key routes in the city are now facing significant disruptions.
Rozito Freitas Soares, a coconut vendor from Pantai Kelapa, is among those adversely affected.
“I usually sell by the beachside of Pantai Kelapa, where I could earn $50 or $60 a day. But now the government has banned us from selling in that spot, so we’ve had to relocate. Here, we can only make $10 or $15 a day. I am saddened by the loss of my usual income,” Rozito said.
Despite his economic hardships, Rozito expressed support for the Pope’s visit, appreciating that it aims to address issues affecting both the poor and the wealthy. Pope Francis is renowned for his advocacy for the marginalized and his criticism of economic inequality.
Since the government’s announcement of the Pope’s visit last February, Dili has seen sweeping changes. Authorities have evicted residents from homes near main streets and areas where Pope Francis will hold Mass. Inocêncio Xavier, a researcher with Asian Justice and Rights (AJAR) Timor-Leste, has voiced concerns over the evictions.
“Those houses have already been demolished by the state, but compensation funds have not yet reached the bank accounts of the displaced individuals. Now, people are living in tents while awaiting the transfer of funds, with no clear timeline,” Xavier explained.
He stressed that funds should be transferred to bank accounts before displacement so people can rebuild or pay for alternative housing.
Additionally, kiosks selling coffee, food, and coconuts at Largo Lecidere have been removed. Many vendors, who relied on these sales to support their families and fund their children’s education, have been displaced.
“All I am asking is for the government to create a designated space, like a fruit market in Lecidere, where we can sell coconuts,” Janio Pires told Independent Media.
Dili has also become notably quieter as main roads are being washed in preparation for the Pope’s arrival. While some view the cleaning as beneficial for public health, it is also seen as part of Timorese tradition for hosting distinguished guests.
“The preparations for receiving Pope Francis reflect Timorese customs of hosting. When no guest is expected, there’s no change. But when a guest is coming, the house is thoroughly cleaned. This tidiness often fades once the guest departs. Our concern for hygiene tends to be seasonal,” noted Josh Trindade, an expert on Timorese culture, in a Facebook post.
Despite the Pope’s reputation for accessibility and engagement, his visit may not fully capture the everyday realities of ordinary Timorese citizens. Security measures are stringent, with alerts issued that prohibit physical contact with Pope Francis during his travels and public appearances.
In light of these measures, vegetable vendors have also been displaced. Government staff recently destroyed their products, justifying the action as necessary for maintaining the city’s image.
“We are not acting outside the law. Street vendors undermine the city’s image. We will continue to seize goods sold on the streets, and those who do not comply should report to the prosecutor’s office,” stated Germano Santa Brites Dias, Secretary of State for Urban Organization, in a press conference today.
As Pope Francis’s arrival approaches, Dili’s transformation underscores the complexities of hosting a high-profile guest while managing the needs of its residents.